Isla Espiritu Santos, Mexico

Earlier this month myself and 2 friends, Trent Hardy and Rob Scott, spent 6 days kayaking around Isla Espiritu Santos in Mexico. It was fantastic! I needed a break from work, as 50-60 hr weeks had been wearing me down and I've been trying to get a trip like this off the ground for a few years now, and it felt so good to finally make it happen. Below is a little trip report on our journey.

First off, IES is located in the Gulf of Californina (aka Sea of Cortez) near the town of La Paz, which is on the lower end of the Baja Peninsula, in the state of Baja California Sur, Mexico. The flight from Mexico City is a little under 2 hrs.

I contacted www.kayakbaja.com, who are located in La Paz, and they were very helpful in providing us information to help us plan our trip. They gave us an excellent map with descriptions of each beach and lots of other tips. We were able to rent all our gear from them (kayaks & equipment, tent, sleeping bag & pad, wetsuit, snorkel gear and dromedary bags). They even had 2 bottles of white gas to sell us, saving us a trip to the gas station to pick some up.

To begin, we flew from St John's - Toronto - Mexico City. We decided to do an overnight in Mexico City to go and see the ruins of Teotihuacan. What an experience, MC was nuts. The ruins are abou a 45 min taxi ride (cost $65) from the airport and the traffic was insane. I've been a few places, and that was something else. But our driver was good, very friendly and got us to our destination safely. We stayed at Villas Arqueologicas Teotihuacan, which is right next to the ruins. The hotel was inexpensive, and nice. The ruins were unbelievable, with the tallest pyramid in the western hemisphere. I'll share a few photos of that, because its amazing.

Pyramid of the Sun

Pyramid of the Moon

The next morning we caught our flight to La Paz and got a taxi to hotel Posada LunaSol, where kayakbaja is located. We got there by 11am, compiled all our gear, then got a taxi to the grocery store (huge, similar to a Dominion here, with clothing, pharmacy, etc..) it had everything you could want or need, including liquor. We had brought our own MREs for suppers, but added some fresh groceries to round out our meals. With no refrigeration, and temps in the high 20s everyday, things don't last that long. 30 mins later and we were back at hotel (total cab fare, $15, including him waiting for us).

The big problem you have here is water. There is NO DRINKING WATER on the island, so you have to bring your own. 1 gallon per person per day, and i must say that was pretty bang on for us. Now, how to carry 18 gallons of water in 3 kayaks along with everything else for 6 days is another problem. We bought 18 gallons and the store, and were able to rent 11 dromedary bags from kayakbaja, which was great, made them take up much less space.

Thats a lot of H20!

Within an hour or so we were ready to be get our shuttle out to the island, which we shared with a British couple who had rented a double and were going for 3 days. The shuttle took an hour or so from La Paz and we got dropped off on a beach on the south end of the island.They said they would pick us up back here at noon in 6 days. Adios!

See you in 6 days amigos!

Didn't take us long to get packed up and hit the water. It got dark around 6-7pm, so we wanted to get as much exploring done as possible before it got dark. The beach where we got dropped of was being used by and outfitter, who was busy preparing food. We chatted with him and he offered us beer and taquitos, where were awesome. He was waiting for a group to come the next day, so he was busy setting up their campsite. I can't drink alcohol, so when I declined the beer he offered me a soda. Nice fella. What a nice start to the trip!

Our plan was to paddle about 8kms to beach #3 (they were numbered on the map we had printed off). Its amazing how everything is so new and amazing when you are in a new place, especially if you have never been there before. I had never been to this part of the world, so seeing cactus and this type of desert landscape was amazing for me. The island itself is very hilly and mountainous, a lot more than I expected, so it makes for quite the backdrop to paddle against every day.

Interesting rock formations

Our first campsite.

The next morning we hiked to the top of the ridge to survey the scene. Spectacular view all around.

Our beach.

After breakfast and coffee, we were back on the water. The plan was to find some good snorkelling...which was pretty much everywhere. Rocky spots are the best, thats where all the fish hang out. The first cove we went into had a lot of mangroves, which meant a lot of birds (and bugs) We watched the pelicans diving for small fish for a while, it was amazing. We did some snorkeling around beach #5 after lunch, but I forgot to take my camera. The total distance paddled for day two was 15kms.

The are a lot of pelicans in this picture

Amazing how life can spring up anywhere

I think this was my fave campsite, beach #7

Before supper we snorkeled out through the cove, swam to the other side and snorkeled back to the campsite. That was awesome, lots of little nooks and crannies to poke in around. That evening, we were getting supper and saw some movement on the rocks. Turns out it was a ring tailed cat who was curious. Later that night he got into our kayaks and tried to get some of the bags open. I had to go out and shoe him away. I didn't get a picture, but here is what they look like.

Ring Tailed Cat

Heading into beach #9

Beach #9 was supposed to have amazing snorkelling, so we were excited. It is also the main beach for outfitters on the island, so it can be busy with other kayakers and boat traffic. On the way in we spotted this guy, he was about 4 feet across. Huge! I was very excited about this, first time I ever saw one while kayaking. We also saw some manta rays from our kayaks, but no luck once we started snorkelling.

One of the 4 sea turtles we saw

Hello Fishies!!

Lunch time

Pictures never do it justice, but this one captures the colour of the water pretty good

We ended the day on Isla Partida, beach #14, total distance paddled around 18kms

The next morning we headed out to Los Islotes, an small cluster of islands on the very northern tip of the island chain. This is where the sea lion rookery is, and is what brings most people to this area.

You can hear the sea lions from a long way off

Paddling through a sea arch

They were everywhere, and very curious

This guy came up and sniffed my waterbottle

We paddled around them for a half hour or so, the young ones where very curious, following us around, jumping and flipping around. There are several buoys around the island, so we tied up to one and got out of our boats to snorkel with them (no where to land on the island, and its also forbidden). Snorkelling with these sea lions was one of the coolest things I have ever done, hands down. What an amazing experience.

Rob had these two swimming circles around him

After our fun with the sea lions, we headed down the eastern side of the island. The conditions were amazing, flat calm

We did a bit of snorkeling in the afternoon, the crossed over where Partida and Espiritu islands meet up. You can wade across the stretch of water between the island at low tide.

Shallows between the islands

We made it back to beach #10 right before dark, total distance paddled was about 23kms. What an unreal day!

Dandy campsite

The next day we planned to paddle back close to where we were gonna pick up, and then take it easy and relax for the day. Along the way, we saw a manta ray close to the surface.

Rob really wanted to snorkel with mantas, and low and behold we came across two huge mantas that were on the bottom. Rob booted into a beach, got on his snorkel gear while I kept track of where they were. Trent then towed him to the mantas and he was able to get next to them. They were about 8ft across. I couldn't get a picture when he was next to them, but got a few of the mantas.

Our last camp. Beautiful, but lots of bugs. I got stung by a bee too

Waiting for pickup the next morning. Our shuttle was right on time!

After 6 days, we were very sad to leave. What an amazing trip! That said, it was nice to get back into town, get a shower, a cold drink and a juicy steak :-)

My knee held up really well, which was a surprise. I thought the snorkelling would be more troublesome, but it wasn't bad at all. Bit of grinding and crunching going on in the joint, but nothing serious. I can safely say my arthritis is under control. Hopefully it stays that way.

Brian

Visit to the SW Coast

I love it when I can get over to the SW Coast of the island where I grew up. I especially love it when my boat makes it over there with me. In early September we went over to Burnt Islands to visit my family, and we took full advantage of having grandparents to pawn the kids off on for a few hours, haha (not that they minded of course).

We went out around BI for a few hours one morning, which was great. I love seeing my hometown from the water. Here are some pics from that lovely morning.

.

Heidi's First Paddle

Before the summer was over, I had to get Heidi in a kayak for the first time. I wanted kayaking to be a part of her life from the get go, and basically to never remember her first time in a kayak. So last week we got out for a short paddle around Little Goose Pond. Mommy and Daniel came to watch the maiden voyage as well.

Dragging the boat down the hill to the pond

All smiles as we get ready to paddle away

The start of what will hopefully be a lifetime of paddling!

Life has been pretty hectic, between work and family life, so there hasn't been much time for paddling. That said we've been having a blast all summer every day that I wasn't working. Lots to see and do around our beautiful province. When I get a rainy afternoon I'll post some pics of some of the paddling Angie and I did on the SW coast while we were visiting my family.

Arthritis update. My knee has been doing pretty good. Simponi has been nothing short of a miracle. Still experience some pain from time to time, and there is some permanent damage done in there, but nothing that I can't live with. Just have to do what are within my limits and take it easy when I have to. More details on all that at a later date...Its early morning and I have to get to work.

It's A Boy!

Say hello to Daniel Newhook, born May 19 at 3:48am. He came into the world very fast! Him and Momma are doing well, and Heidi is very proud to be a big sister. Exciting times!

Iceberg!

After one of the roughest winters in recent memory it was so nice to get back on the water yesterday evening. A week of Northeast winds have pushed some mighty icebergs into our waters, and one was pretty close to where I work, so after punching in some OT I rewarded myself with an evening paddle. The first one since September. It was just what the doctor ordered.

Seal Cove slipway. Amazing berg off in the distance

Life this past winter has had its challenges. A malfunctioning washing machine led to a flood on the main floor of our house that put us at the in-laws for 26 days. Angie is due with our new baby in 13 days, and Heidi, 3 yrs old now is not sleeping at night. Not to mention 50 hr work weeks. One of the best (or worst, depending on your perspective) winters in recent memory I had to spend staring out the window, wishing I was on ski's, or on my snow machine. My knee just was not up to it. So yeah,

Things like that make short paddles like I had yesterday that much more rewarding. Sitting on the water, breathing the air and witnessing one of natures great spectacles is good for the soul. 

We are getting closer!

A little update on my arthritis situation. For 18 months I have massive inflammation in my left knee that did not respond to any treatment. Very frustrating and disheartening, but not the end of the world if you keep things in perspective. I was very, very close to have a synovectomy performed by an orthopedic surgeon, when I found out I'd been approved for Simponi, and once a month injection (biologic). This is basically the last hope for people in my situation. My rhuemotologist informed me that it was very rare for someone with just one joint issue to be prescribed this medication, so it let me know how serious the situation was. Got an injection March 25, and the difference has been nothing short of miraculous. While I'm still not 100%, still don't have the full range of motion back, the improvement is very encouraging. I no longer have a limp! So I'm keeping at it, and hopefully it just keeps getting better and better until all the ROM is back, and all the strength is back. Long road, but its the road I'm on :-)

Amazing features on this berg. Massive pinnacle and lots of deep blue colours. Reminds me of a similar berg we paddled around near Keels several years ago, only this one is a little smaller.

A quick scoot around the berg (without getting to close), some photo taking, and foraging for a small chunk of ice for the freezer and we were back at the launch. 1.5 hrs of bliss.


So I'm back on the water, and soon to be a dad for the second time.  The adventure continues....and life is good.......

Plans Gone Astray

I haven't done any blog worthy paddles, just a couple short trips so I can remember what it feels like to be on the water. With my knee the way it is, I can't carry and load my boat onto my car myself, and I find it really difficult to slide in and out of my cockpit, so I'm nervous about going out into any conditions that may require a quick exit from my boat. I also find it difficult to have my thighs braced in the proper position to have good control of my kayak at all times. It sucks!

I'm going to be starting new medication in a few weeks. I'm really hoping I see some positive results. Nothing has worked thus far. Fingers crossed I guess.

One thing I enjoy as much as kayaking is traveling. Angie and I usually take a trip or two (or three) each year. The thought of staying around my house while on vacation gives me shudders! Life is short, vacation time is limited, and its a big ol' world, so I'd like to see as much of it as I can. Angie and I, along with our friends Chad and Kathy had been planning a trip to Nepal for the past 2 years. We planned to hike to the base camp of Mount Everest, a lifelong dream of mine. Everything was going as planned until last spring I was diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis, and my knee grew to the size of a cantaloupe, and still remains that way. With a heavy heart I had to pull the plug on that trip of a lifetime.

So, to combat the blues, we decided to book a trip else where. Do something a bit more relaxing and suitable to someone with my  mobility issues. We came across a really good deal on an 11 day Baltic Cruise with Princess Cruises. It was a fantastic trip, and was just what I needed.

Hope all is well in everyone else's world. Thought I'd share a few photos from our trip, just to let everyone know I'm still alive.

Church On Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg, Russia

Brandenberg Gate, Berlin, Germany

Peterhof Palace, St Petersburg, Russia

Peterhof Palace, St. Petersburg

Gamla Stan (Old Town), Stockholm, Sweden

Humbolt University, Berlin, Germany
This is where Einstein went, and was also the site of the Nazi book burning incident

Icebar in Oslo, Norway
Nothing like walking into a room thats -5C when its +28C outside and having a cold drink in a glass made of ice!

Little Mermaid, Copenhagen, Denmark
The symbol of this amazing city

Lutheran Cathedral, Helsinki, Finland

Old Town Tallinn, Estonia

Viru Gate, Old Town Tallinn, Estonia

Remains of the Berlin Wall, Berlin, Germany

Site of the Fuhrer bunker, aka where Hitler killed himself, Berlin, Germany

Stonehenge, United Kingdom

 

Viking Ship Museum, Oslo, Norway

The Arthritis Chronicles Vol. 2

I spent most of last week at St Claires Hospital, in the rheumatology department getting my knee looked into. I met with a rheumatologist, physiotherapist, occupational therapist, pharmacist, etc.. Turns out I do indeed have psoriatic arthritis. Bummer.....but glad to finally have a diagnosis and a plan deal with it.

My knee was really swollen, so an orthopedic surgeon drained some fluid off of it. The normal human knee has 5-6ml of fluid on it. He took over 70ml off mine. Said it was the most fluid hes taken off a joint.

Thats a lot of knee juice!

The following day I had a steroid injection in my knee. I felt just like Lance Armstrong, I wanted to pedal a bike the 90kms home :-) I had to stay off it for 48 hrs, which wasn't easy, but now, 5 days later, it is amazing the difference in my knee. I'm slowly gaining back my full range of motion. Hopefully in 2 weeks I can start swimming and doing water exercises. 

I'm off to Jamaica on Sunday for a wedding. Should be nice and relaxing. When I get back on the 14th....the ol' Seaknife is going back into the water again and I can't wait! Angie and I started watching This is the Sea Vol. 5 last night, and its really really making me miss kayaking. I'll be back on the water soon. Maybe then I can actually have a blog post about kayaking.

Brian